I lay on the mat of the open-air bungalow in Apia, Samoa, looking up at a gecko. As its tail quivered, I felt a sympathetic twitch in my leg. Su’a Sulu’ape Paulo III, the sixth-generation Samoan ...

Much like a fresh manicure, a hand tattoo can spark joy every time you look down. Each artist we spoke with for this story mentioned a growing interest in hand tattoos among their clientele. Some ...