It’s as hard to book tables at Daniel Boulud’s great new American steakhouse La Tete D’Or, which opened in November, as it was at EMP in its animal product-serving prime.

The Manhattan restaurant drew global praise and skepticism with its climate-minded, all-plant menu. Now its chef wants to be more welcoming — and popular.

The iconic New York restaurant is currently the only vegan spot in the world with three Michelin stars.